Paver Base Calculator

For a 10x10 (100 sq ft) patio with 4 inches of base, you need approximately 1.25 cubic yards or 1.7 tons of crushed stone, plus 0.3 cubic yards (0.4 tons) of sand for the bedding layer. For a 6-inch base, you'll need 1.85 cubic yards or 2.5 tons of crushed stone. Always add 10-15% extra for waste and compaction.

No. Regular play sand or beach sand is too fine and doesn't provide proper drainage. Use coarse concrete sand or stone dust specifically designed for paver installations. Fine sand will wash away, retain water, and cause paver settling and failure within 1-2 years. Coarse concrete sand (also called C-33 sand) has larger particles that allow water to drain through while providing a stable base.

For residential driveways with regular passenger vehicle traffic (cars, SUVs), use 8-10 inches of compacted base material. Heavy traffic areas with trucks, RVs, or boats require 10-12 inches of base. Always install base in 2-3 inch lifts, compacting each layer thoroughly before adding the next. Insufficient base depth is the #1 cause of driveway paver failure.

Landscape fabric (geotextile) is recommended for areas with poor soil conditions, high clay content, expansive soils, or drainage issues. It prevents base material from mixing with native soil, maintains structural integrity, and improves drainage. However, it's not always necessary—in sandy, well-draining soils with stable subgrade, you can skip the fabric. For clay soils or areas with water problems, fabric is essential to prevent base failure.

One ton of crushed stone covers approximately 60-70 square feet at 4 inches depth when properly compacted. At 6 inches depth, one ton covers 40-45 sq ft. At 8 inches depth, one ton covers 30-35 sq ft. Coverage varies based on material type, compaction rate, and waste factor. Gravel base with fines typically covers slightly more area due to better compaction and void filling.

Paver base (crushed stone/gravel) is the structural foundation layer (4-12 inches depending on application) that provides load-bearing support and drainage. Bedding sand (1 inch of coarse sand) is the smooth leveling layer directly under pavers that allows for minor adjustments and helps pavers settle evenly. You need both—base for strength and drainage, sand for leveling and lockup. They serve completely different purposes and cannot substitute for each other.

Crushed stone #57 (3/4-inch angular) is considered the gold standard for paver base material. The angular edges lock together when compacted, creating superior stability and drainage. For budget-conscious projects, Class 5 gravel or road base provides excellent performance at lower cost. Avoid round river rock (doesn't compact), pea gravel (too small and round), or play sand (no structural support). For eco-friendly projects, recycled concrete aggregate (RCA) performs similarly to natural stone at 20-30% lower cost.

Use this formula: (Length in feet × Width in feet × Depth in inches) ÷ 324 = Cubic yards needed. Example: For a 12×16 patio with 6-inch base: (12 × 16 × 6) ÷ 324 = 3.56 cubic yards. Always add 10-15% for waste and compaction—so order 4 cubic yards for this example. Our calculator above does this math automatically and accounts for compaction factors specific to each material type.

No, never install pavers without a proper base. Pavers laid directly on soil or sand will settle unevenly, crack, shift, and fail within months. The base provides critical functions: load distribution, drainage, frost protection, and prevention of settling. Even for light-traffic walkways, you need minimum 4 inches of compacted base. Shortcuts during installation always lead to expensive repairs later. The base represents only 15-20% of total project cost but provides 90% of the structural integrity.

When properly compacted in 2-3 inch lifts with a plate compactor, paver base achieves 95% density immediately and experiences minimal settling (less than 1/4 inch). However, the entire paver system may settle slightly over the first 6-12 months as it experiences weather cycles and traffic. This is normal and expected. Improperly compacted base (compacted in thick lifts or not compacted at all) can settle 1-3 inches, causing severe paver damage. Proper compaction is critical—never skip this step.

Both crushed stone and gravel work well, but they have different characteristics. Crushed stone (angular, 3/4 inch) provides maximum stability and drainage—best for driveways and heavy-use areas. Gravel base or Class 5 (mix of crushed rock and fines) compacts more densely and costs less—excellent for patios and walkways. For freeze-thaw climates, crushed stone drains better and resists frost heave. For clay soils, gravel base with fines may retain too much water—use crushed stone instead. Both significantly outperform round rocks or pea gravel, which don't compact properly.

Inadequate compaction is the leading cause of paver failure. Without proper compaction, the base will settle under traffic and weather cycles, causing pavers to sink, develop lips (trip hazards), crack, or create low spots that pool water. Properly compacted base should achieve 95% density and feel rock-solid when walking. Common compaction mistakes: adding base too deep (compact max 3 inches per lift), not making enough passes (need 3-4 passes per lift), compacting too dry material (light misting helps), or using insufficient equipment (hand tamper inadequate for areas over 20 sq ft—rent plate compactor). Taking time to compact properly prevents costly repairs later.