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Tile Calculator - Free Tile & Grout Estimator 2025
Calculate exact tiles, grout, and costs for floors, walls, and bathrooms. Professional-grade calculator prevents shortages and overspending.
Tile & Grout Calculator
How to Use the Tile Calculator
Calculate exactly how many tiles and how much grout you need for your floor or wall tiling project. Avoid over-ordering or running short with our professional tile calculator.
Step 1: Measure Your Room
Measure the length and width of the area to be tiled in feet. For irregular shapes, divide into rectangles and calculate separately, then add the totals. Don't subtract for fixtures or cabinets - waste factor will account for cuts.
Step 2: Enter Tile Size
Input the dimensions of your chosen tiles in inches. Common sizes: 12x12", 12x24", 18x18", 6x6", and 3x6" subway tiles. The calculator works with any tile size including rectangular and large format tiles.
Step 3: Set Waste Factor
Choose waste percentage based on layout complexity. Simple straight layouts need 5-10%, diagonal patterns need 15%, and complex designs with intricate cuts need 20%. Always better to have extra tiles than run short mid-project.
Step 4: Enter Costs
Input the price per box of tiles and price per bag of grout. This provides an accurate material cost estimate. Remember to check how many tiles are in each box - it varies by tile size and manufacturer.
Complete Tile Installation Guide
Proper tile installation ensures beautiful, long-lasting results. Follow these professional steps for success.
1. Surface Preparation (Most Important Step)
The substrate must be clean, level, and solid. For floors, ensure deflection is within specs (max L/360). Repair cracks, fill low spots with leveling compound, and remove all dust and debris. Uneven surfaces will cause tile lippage and cracking.
2. Layout and Dry Fit
Find the center of the room and snap chalk lines. Dry lay tiles to determine the best starting point. Adjust layout to avoid small cuts at edges - aim for cuts larger than half a tile. A good layout saves materials and looks professional.
3. Apply Thin-Set Mortar
Use the correct trowel size for your tile - 1/4"x1/4" square notch for tiles under 8", 1/4"x3/8" for 8-16" tiles, 1/2"x1/2" for large format. Apply mortar in small sections (3x3 feet) that you can tile within 15-20 minutes.
4. Set Tiles with Spacers
Press tiles into mortar with slight twisting motion. Use spacers (1/16" to 1/4" depending on preference) for consistent grout lines. Check level frequently - lippage is hard to fix later. Back-butter large tiles for better adhesion.
5. Cut Tiles as Needed
Rent a wet saw for clean, straight cuts. Use a tile nipper for small notches and curves. Smooth cut edges with rubbing stone. Always wear safety glasses - tile shards are sharp and dangerous.
6. Let Cure Before Grouting
Wait 24-48 hours for thin-set to cure before grouting. Walking on tiles too soon can cause them to shift. Remove spacers and clean any mortar from tile faces and joints before it hardens completely.
7. Apply and Seal Grout
Mix grout to peanut butter consistency. Push grout into joints at 45-degree angle using rubber float. Remove excess with damp sponge. After grout dries (7-10 days), apply penetrating sealer to prevent staining. Sealed grout is much easier to clean.
Tile Installation Cost Guide 2025
Tile Material Costs
- Ceramic tile: $0.50 - $7/sq ft
- Porcelain tile: $3 - $12/sq ft
- Natural stone: $5 - $25/sq ft
- Glass tile: $7 - $30/sq ft
- Luxury vinyl tile (LVT): $2 - $7/sq ft
Installation Materials
- Thin-set mortar: $25 - $40 per 50 lb bag (covers 75-100 sq ft)
- Grout: $15 - $25 per 25 lb bag (covers 100-200 sq ft)
- Tile spacers: $5 - $10 per bag
- Cement board underlayment: $10 - $15 per 3x5 ft sheet
- Grout sealer: $15 - $25 per quart
Professional Installation Labor
- Basic tile installation: $5 - $12/sq ft
- Complex patterns: $8 - $18/sq ft
- Shower/tub surround: $10 - $20/sq ft
- Backsplash: $10 - $25/sq ft (smaller area = higher rate)
- Floor removal/prep: $2 - $5/sq ft additional
DIY vs Professional Installation
DIY tile installation can save 50-70% of project cost, but requires tool rental, time, and skill. Consider professional installation for:
- Large format tiles (24" or larger) - difficult to level properly
- Showers and wet areas - waterproofing is critical
- Complex patterns like herringbone or chevron
- Natural stone - requires special handling and sealing
DIY is feasible for small bathrooms, simple kitchen backsplashes, and standard pattern floor tiles with proper research and patience.
5 Costly Tile Installation Mistakes to Avoid
1. Skipping Surface Preparation
Installing tile over uneven, damaged, or flexing substrate leads to cracked tiles and grout. Spend time on proper prep - it's 50% of a successful tile job. Level floors within 1/8" over 10 feet, and ensure solid backing.
2. Wrong Trowel Size
Using incorrect trowel size causes hollow spots under tiles (tap tiles - they shouldn't sound hollow). Tiles should have 95% coverage on floors, 85% on walls. Small tiles need small notches, large tiles need large notches.
3. Not Planning Layout
Starting at a wall often leaves thin slivers of tile on the opposite side. Always start from center and work outward. Adjust starting point to avoid cuts smaller than half a tile. A proper layout looks professional and wastes less tile.
4. Grouting Too Soon
Grouting before thin-set fully cures (24-48 hours) can cause tiles to shift and grout to crack. Be patient. Rushing this step ruins all your hard work. Follow product instructions for cure time - humidity and temperature affect curing.
5. Not Ordering Enough Tiles
Tile dye lots vary - tiles from different batches may not match. Order all tiles at once with 10-20% extra. Keep leftover tiles for future repairs. Running short mid-project is frustrating and expensive.
Tile Installation FAQs
What size tile is easiest to install?
12x12" tiles are easiest for beginners - manageable size, forgiving of minor leveling issues, and require fewer cuts. Large format tiles (24x24" or larger) look modern but are heavy, require perfect substrate, and show every imperfection.
How long does it take to tile a room?
For a 10x10 ft bathroom floor: 1 day for prep and layout, 1 day for tiling, 1 day for grouting = 3 days minimum for DIY. Add extra time for complex layouts or if you're learning. Professionals work faster but charge accordingly.
What's the best grout joint size?
Rectified tiles (precisely cut edges): 1/16" to 1/8" joints for modern, seamless look. Standard tiles: 1/8" to 1/4" joints to accommodate slight size variations. Larger joints are easier to grout and more forgiving of installation imperfections.
Do I need to seal my tile?
Glazed ceramic and porcelain tiles don't need sealing - they're already waterproof. Natural stone (marble, travertine, slate) requires sealing before and after grouting. Always seal grout lines on floors to prevent staining - especially in kitchens and bathrooms.
Can I tile over existing tile?
Yes, if existing tile is solid, level, and well-bonded. Clean thoroughly, roughen surface with grinder, and use polymer-modified thin-set. However, this raises floor height (problematic at doors) and hides potential substrate issues. Removal is usually better long-term.
Pro Tiling Tips
Always buy 10-15% extra tiles for waste and future repairs
Use leveling clips for large format tiles to prevent lippage
Keep tile boxes in room 24 hours before installation to acclimate
Rent professional tools - wet saw and tile cutter save time
Related Tools
Tool Rental Costs
Complete Tile Selection Guide (2025)
Tile Types Comparison
💎 Ceramic Tile (Most Popular)
Cost: $0.50-$7 per sq ft
Durability Rating: 3-4/5 (Good for light to medium traffic)
Water Resistance: Glazed versions are waterproof
Best For: Bathroom walls, kitchen backsplashes, light-traffic floors
Pros: Affordable, huge variety of colors/patterns, easy to cut, DIY-friendly
Cons: Chips easier than porcelain, grout lines show dirt, can crack under heavy weight
💡 Best Choice If: You're on a budget, tiling walls, or have a standard bathroom/kitchen project
🏆 Porcelain Tile (Premium Choice)
Cost: $3-$25 per sq ft
Durability Rating: 5/5 (Extreme durability)
Water Resistance: Virtually impervious to water
Best For: High-traffic floors, outdoor patios, commercial spaces, anywhere durability matters
Pros: Extremely hard and dense, frost-proof, scratch-resistant, lasts 50+ years, can mimic natural stone/wood
Cons: More expensive, harder to cut (requires wet saw), heavier, professional installation often needed
💡 Best Choice If: You want lifetime durability, tiling outdoors, or high-traffic commercial areas
🪨 Natural Stone Tile (Luxury Option)
Cost: $5-$50 per sq ft
Types: Marble, granite, travertine, slate, limestone
Durability Rating: 3-5/5 (Varies by stone type)
Best For: Luxury bathrooms, statement foyers, high-end kitchen floors
Pros: Authentic natural beauty, unique patterns (no two tiles identical), increases home value
Cons: Requires sealing 1-2x/year, porous (stains easily), expensive, needs professional installation, high maintenance
💡 Best Choice If: You want luxury aesthetic and don't mind regular maintenance/sealing
✨ Glass Tile (Accent/Decorative)
Cost: $7-$30 per sq ft
Durability Rating: 2-3/5 (Decorative use only)
Best For: Kitchen backsplashes, bathroom accent walls, mosaic designs
Pros: Stunning visual depth, reflects light beautifully, completely waterproof, modern aesthetic
Cons: Shows every imperfection in substrate, expensive, NOT for floors (cracks easily), difficult installation
💡 Best Choice If: You're creating an eye-catching backsplash or accent feature (walls only)
📏 Tile Size Selection Guide
| Tile Size | Best For | Difficulty | Visual Effect |
|---|---|---|---|
| Small (1-4") | Shower floors, mosaics, backsplashes | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ High (many cuts) | Classic, detailed, busy |
| Medium (6-8") | Small bathrooms, utility rooms | ⭐⭐ Moderate | Traditional, balanced |
| Standard (12x12") | Most floors, DIY projects | ⭐ Easy (BEST FOR BEGINNERS) | Universal, works anywhere |
| Large (12x24", 18x18") | Large rooms, open spaces | ⭐⭐⭐ Hard (heavy, needs perfect substrate) | Modern, spacious, fewer grout lines |
| Large Format (24x48"+) | Contemporary homes, commercial | ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Very Hard (pro installation) | Ultra-modern, seamless look |
💡 Pro Tip: Larger tiles = fewer grout lines = less cleaning, BUT require perfectly flat substrate. Small rooms look bigger with larger tiles (counterintuitive but true!).
Complete DIY Tile Installation Guide
⏱️ Time Estimate for 100 sq ft Bathroom Floor:
- • Day 1: Floor prep and underlayment (4-6 hours)
- • Day 2: Tile layout and installation (6-8 hours)
- • Day 3: Grouting and sealing (4-5 hours)
- • Total: 14-19 hours over 3-4 days (allows for drying time)
🔧 Phase 1: Floor Preparation (MOST IMPORTANT!)
Remove Old Flooring & Clean Subfloor
Remove existing flooring, carpet, vinyl, or old tile. Scrape off all adhesive residue using a floor scraper. Vacuum thoroughly - even small debris causes tile lippage.
❌ CRITICAL MISTAKE TO AVOID: Tiling over uneven or damaged subfloor. 90% of tile failures come from poor substrate preparation. If floor has soft spots, water damage, or isn't level within 1/4" over 10 feet, fix it FIRST.
Check for Level & Repair Subfloor
Use a 6-foot level to check flatness. Mark high/low spots with chalk. Low spots need leveling compound, high spots need grinding/sanding.
Tools needed: 6-foot level, self-leveling compound ($20-30/bag covers ~50 sq ft at 1/8" thick), trowel, primer
Cost: $50-150 for typical bathroom floor
Install Cement Backer Board (For Wet Areas)
For bathrooms, kitchens, or any wet area, install 1/2" cement backer board (HardieBacker or Durock). Screw every 8" with backer board screws. Tape seams with fiberglass mesh tape and thin-set.
Why backer board? Prevents water damage and mold. Drywall/plywood absorbs water and rots. Backer board is waterproof and dimensionally stable. Cost: $10-15 per sheet (3x5 ft).
Apply Waterproofing Membrane (Showers/Wet Areas Only)
For shower floors/walls, apply liquid waterproofing membrane (RedGard, AquaDefense) with roller. 2 coats, let dry 2-4 hours between coats. This creates a waterproof barrier behind tiles.
Not needed for dry areas like living rooms or bedrooms
📐 Phase 2: Layout Planning
Find Your Center Lines
Measure and mark the center point of each wall. Snap chalk lines across the room to create center cross. This ensures balanced layout with equal cuts on opposite walls.
💡 Pro Trick: Do a "dry lay" - lay tiles along your lines WITHOUT adhesive to see how they'll look. Adjust starting point to avoid tiny slivers at edges (looks terrible and breaks easily).
Choose Your Tile Pattern
🔲 Straight/Grid (Easiest)
Tiles align in rows/columns. Simple, fast, 10% waste.
◆ Diagonal (Moderate)
45° angle. Makes small rooms look bigger. 15% waste.
🧱 Brick/Offset (Popular)
Each row offset by 50%. Hides imperfections. 10-12% waste.
🌀 Herringbone (Complex)
V-pattern. Stunning but slow. 20% waste, many cuts.
🏗️ Phase 3: Tile Installation
Mix & Apply Thin-Set Mortar
Mix thin-set to peanut butter consistency (too wet = tiles slip, too thick = doesn't spread). Apply with 1/4" notched trowel at 45° angle creating uniform ridges. Work in 3x3 ft sections (mortar dries in 15-20 min).
Thin-Set Types:
• Regular: $12-15/bag, 95 sq ft coverage
• Polymer-Modified: $18-25/bag, better adhesion, flexible (RECOMMENDED)
• Large Tile Mortar: $22-30/bag, for tiles 12"+ (prevents sagging)
Set Tiles with Spacers
Press tile firmly into mortar with slight twisting motion. Use tile spacers (1/16"-1/4" depending on tile size) to maintain consistent grout lines. Check level frequently with 2-foot level - adjust immediately if needed.
❌ Don't slide tiles! This scrapes away thin-set ridges causing hollow spots and future cracks. Lift and reposition if needed.
Cut Edge & Corner Tiles
Measure each cut tile individually (rooms are rarely perfectly square). Mark cut line, score with tile cutter or cut with wet saw. Notch corners around pipes/obstacles with tile nippers or angle grinder.
Save all edge cuts for last - install full tiles first to establish your pattern
Let Mortar Cure 24-48 Hours
DO NOT walk on tiles or grout before full cure time. Remove spacers after 24 hours. Check for any loose tiles - remove and re-set with fresh mortar if found.
🎨 Phase 4: Grouting & Finishing
Select the Right Grout
Sanded Grout
For joints wider than 1/8". More durable, less shrinkage. Most floor applications.
Cost: $8-15 per 25 lb bag (covers ~200 sq ft)
Unsanded Grout
For narrow joints under 1/8". Smooth finish. Glass tile, polished stone.
Cost: $12-18 per bag
Epoxy Grout (BEST but expensive)
100% stain-proof, waterproof, never needs sealing. Perfect for kitchen counters, shower floors.
Cost: $25-60 per kit (covers ~100 sq ft) - WORTH IT for high-use areas
Apply Grout
Mix grout to toothpaste consistency. Spread diagonally across tiles with rubber grout float, pressing firmly into joints. Work in 10 sq ft sections. Hold float at 45° angle and scrape off excess.
💡 Timing is critical: Wait 10-15 minutes after spreading, then wipe with damp sponge in circular motions. Too soon = you pull grout out. Too late = impossible to remove haze.
Clean & Polish
After initial wipe, let grout set 1 hour. Do final wipe with clean damp sponge. After 3-4 hours, buff off haze with microfiber cloth. May need multiple buffing passes.
White haze is normal - it buffs off easily after grout hardens
Seal Grout Lines (48-72 Hours Later)
Apply grout sealer with brush or spray bottle. Wipe excess off tiles immediately. This prevents staining and makes cleaning easier. Re-seal annually in high-traffic areas.
Grout Sealer Cost: $12-25 per quart (covers ~250 sq ft of grout lines)
🧰 Complete Tool & Materials List
Essential Tools
- ✓ Notched trowel (1/4" or 3/8"): $8-15
- ✓ Rubber grout float: $8-12
- ✓ Tile spacers: $5-10
- ✓ Sponges & buckets: $10-15
- ✓ Chalk line: $8-12
- ✓ Tape measure & level: $15-25
- ✓ Mixing paddle & drill: $15-30
- ✓ Knee pads: $15-25 (save your knees!)
Cutting Tools (Choose One)
- • Manual tile cutter: $40-100 (straight cuts only)
- • Wet tile saw rental: $50-80/day (ALL cuts)
- • Angle grinder + tile blade: $60-150 (buy)
- • Tile nippers for corners: $15-25
Wet saw HIGHLY recommended - cleaner cuts, less breakage
Total Tool Investment: $200-400 to buy, or $100-150 to rent major items
Complete Tile Project Cost Breakdown
| Item | Cost Range | For 100 sq ft Bathroom | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Tiles | $0.50-$25/sq ft | $55-$2,750 | 110 sq ft with 10% waste |
| Thin-Set Mortar | $12-$25/bag | $12-$25 | 1 bag covers ~95 sq ft |
| Grout | $8-$60/bag | $8-$60 | Epoxy much more expensive |
| Backer Board | $10-$15/sheet | $80-$120 | 7-8 sheets (3x5 ft each) |
| Waterproofing | $30-$50/gallon | $30-$50 | If wet area (shower/bath) |
| Grout Sealer | $12-$25/quart | $12-$25 | Essential for longevity |
| Tools (Buy) | $150-$400 | $150-$400 | One-time investment |
| Tools (Rent) | $50-$150 | $50-$150 | Wet saw + misc |
| DIY TOTAL | - | $350-$3,600 | Typical: $600-$1,200 |
| Professional Install | $7-$20/sq ft | $700-$2,000 | + Materials |
💰 Budget Project
Ceramic tile, DIY install, basic tools
$3-$5/sq ft
100 sq ft = $300-$500 total
⭐ Standard Project
Quality porcelain, DIY or contractor
$8-$15/sq ft
100 sq ft = $800-$1,500 total
🏆 Premium Project
Natural stone/luxury tile, professional
$20-$45/sq ft
100 sq ft = $2,000-$4,500 total
10 Costly Tile Installation Mistakes to Avoid
❌ #1: Skipping Floor Prep or Using Wrong Substrate
The Problem: Tiling directly over old vinyl, damaged plywood, or uneven concrete causes 90% of tile failures within 2-3 years. Tiles crack, grout cracks, edges lift.
✅ The Fix: Remove all old flooring. Install cement backer board in wet areas. Level floor within 1/4" over 10 feet. Use self-leveling compound for concrete. Don't rush prep - it's 50% of success.
❌ #2: Wrong Thin-Set for Your Tile Type
The Problem: Using standard thin-set for large format tiles (12"+) causes sagging and lippage. Using too much thin-set creates air pockets. Wrong trowel size = poor adhesion.
✅ The Fix: Large tiles (12"+) need large tile mortar or medium-bed mortar. Use 1/4" square-notch trowel for 12" tiles, 1/2" for 24"+ tiles. Follow manufacturer specs EXACTLY.
❌ #3: Not Planning Layout Before Starting
The Problem: Starting in a corner without planning results in tiny slivers at opposite wall, off-center patterns, awkward cuts around fixtures.
✅ The Fix: Snap chalk lines at room center. Do dry layout without mortar. Adjust starting point to avoid cuts smaller than half a tile. Plan how tiles meet doorways and obstacles.
❌ #4: Using Tile from Different Dye Lots
The Problem: Colors vary slightly between production batches. Mixing dye lots creates visible color variations that look like mistakes.
✅ The Fix: Buy all tile at once from same dye lot (printed on box). Buy 15-20% extra for future repairs - you can't match dye lots later. Return unopened boxes.
❌ #5: Walking on Freshly Set Tiles
The Problem: Walking on tiles before mortar cures (24-48 hours) causes them to shift, sink, or pop up later. Creates uneven floor and grout cracks.
✅ The Fix: Tile yourself into a corner and exit room. Use kneeling boards if you must access center areas. Wait FULL 24 hours minimum, 48 hours for large tiles before any foot traffic.
❌ #6: Inconsistent Grout Line Width
The Problem: Not using spacers creates wavy, inconsistent grout lines that look unprofessional. "Eyeballing it" never works - human eye sees even tiny differences.
✅ The Fix: Use quality tile spacers religiously. Remove and reuse as you go. Standard spacing: 1/16" for rectified tiles, 1/8"-1/4" for standard tiles, 1/4"-3/8" for rustic looks.
❌ #7: Grouting Too Soon or Too Late
The Problem: Grouting before mortar cures (24 hours) causes tiles to shift. Waiting 5+ days allows thin-set to dry out completely making grout not bond properly.
✅ The Fix: Grout 24-48 hours after tiling. Remove ALL spacers first. Clean out joints thoroughly with utility knife. Vacuum out dust. Slightly damp (not wet) substrate helps grout cure.
❌ #8: Not Sealing Grout (Or Sealing Too Soon)
The Problem: Unsealed grout absorbs stains, dirt, and moisture. Sealing before grout fully cures (48-72 hours) traps moisture inside causing problems.
✅ The Fix: Wait 48-72 hours after grouting. Apply penetrating grout sealer (not topical). Wipe excess off tiles immediately. Reapply annually in bathrooms/kitchens, every 2-3 years elsewhere.
❌ #9: Using Floor Tile on Walls (or Vice Versa)
The Problem: Wall tiles are thinner, lighter, and can't handle floor traffic. Floor tiles are too heavy for wall installation and require different adhesive.
✅ The Fix: Buy tiles rated for intended location. Wall-only tiles say "wall use only." Floor tiles can go on walls (but not vice versa). Porcelain floor tiles rated for floor traffic (PEI rating 3+).
❌ #10: Ignoring Expansion Joints
The Problem: Tile and grout are rigid. Without expansion joints at walls and transitions, natural building movement causes cracking. Tenting (tiles popping up) in summer heat.
✅ The Fix: Leave 1/4"-3/8" gap at all walls and doorways. Fill with caulk (not grout!). Use same-color caulk as grout. Caulk flexes, grout doesn't. Re-caulk annually if needed.
Long-Term Tile Maintenance Guide
Daily & Weekly Cleaning
- ✓ Sweep or vacuum regularly to prevent grit from scratching glazed surfaces
- ✓ Damp mop with pH-neutral cleaner (NOT vinegar - damages grout!)
- ✓ Wipe up spills immediately, especially on natural stone
- ✓ Use door mats to reduce tracked-in dirt and sand
Monthly Deep Cleaning
- ✓ Scrub grout lines with soft brush and grout cleaner
- ✓ Clean tile surface with appropriate cleaner for tile type
- ✓ Check for cracked/missing grout and repair immediately
- ✓ Check caulk at walls and showers - recaulk if cracking
Annual Maintenance
- ✓ Reseal ALL grout lines (unless using epoxy grout)
- ✓ Reseal natural stone tiles if water no longer beads up
- ✓ Deep clean with steam cleaner or professional tile cleaning
- ✓ Inspect for loose/hollow-sounding tiles - repair before worsens
⚠️ Never Use These Products:
- ❌ Vinegar or acidic cleaners (damage grout and natural stone)
- ❌ Bleach (weakens grout over time, discolors colored grout)
- ❌ Oil-based cleaners (leave residue that attracts dirt)
- ❌ Abrasive powders (scratch glazed ceramic and porcelain)
- ❌ Steam mops on unsealed grout (forces water into substrate)
Ceramic/Porcelain Tile Care
Best Cleaner: Mild dish soap + water, or pH-neutral tile cleaner
Sealing: Glazed tiles don't need sealing, only grout
Durability: Extremely low maintenance, scratch/stain resistant
Natural Stone Tile Care
Best Cleaner: Stone-specific pH-neutral cleaner only
Sealing: Seal tile AND grout annually, test water absorption
Durability: High maintenance, sealing critical to prevent staining
Frequently Asked Tile Installation Questions
Q: Can I tile over existing tile?
A: Yes, if existing tile is firmly bonded, flat, and in good condition. Clean thoroughly, roughen surface with sandpaper, use polymer-modified thin-set. However, removal is better long-term - allows you to check substrate and prevents hiding problems. Tiling over tile also raises floor height which can cause door clearance issues.
Q: How long does tile installation take?
A: For a 100 sq ft bathroom floor: Day 1 = prep and underlayment (4-6 hours), Day 2 = tile installation (6-8 hours), Day 3 = grouting (4-5 hours). Total 3-4 days including cure times. First-time DIYers should double these estimates. Complex patterns add 30-50% more time.
Q: What's the best tile size for small bathrooms?
A: Counterintuitively, LARGER tiles (12x24" or 18x18") make small bathrooms feel bigger. Fewer grout lines = less visual clutter = more spacious feeling. Avoid tiny tiles (4x4" or smaller) which create busy, cramped look. Exception: use small tiles on shower floors for better slip resistance.
Q: How much extra tile should I buy?
A: Buy 10% extra for straight layouts, 15% for diagonal/patterns, 20% for complex designs or if you're a first-timer. CRITICAL: Buy extra from the same dye lot - you cannot color-match tiles from different production runs. Save leftover tiles for future repairs - even slight color differences stand out.
Q: Should I do floors or walls first?
A: DO WALLS FIRST in showers/tubs. Wall tiles overlap floor tiles by 1/4" preventing water from seeping behind wall. Exception: For regular rooms with just floor installation, obviously do floors first! If doing both floor and wall in open areas, do floor first, then baseboard/trim.
Q: Can I use the same tile for floors and walls?
A: You can use FLOOR tiles on walls, but NOT wall tiles on floors. Floor tiles are thicker, stronger, and rated for foot traffic (PEI 3+ rating). Wall tiles are too thin/fragile for floors. Using same tile throughout creates cohesive look - just make sure it's rated for floor use.
Q: Do I need underlayment for tile?
A: YES for wet areas (bathrooms, kitchens) - use cement backer board (HardieBacker/Durock). NO for dry areas over concrete slab. MAYBE for dry areas over wood subfloor - use 1/4" backer board for added stability. Never tile directly over drywall, plywood in wet areas, or damaged subflooring.
Q: Why is my grout cracking?
A: Four main causes: (1) Too much water in grout mix making it weak, (2) No expansion joints at walls/transitions, (3) Floor movement from improper substrate, (4) Walking on floor before thin-set fully cured. Fix: Remove cracked grout, re-grout properly. If continues, underlying substrate issue needs addressing.
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